THE SECOND-HAND VINYL GUIDE
WHAT SHOULD YOU LOOK FOR IN USED RECORDS?
A used record has already lived a life. Perhaps it sat untouched in a cupboard for years. Perhaps it was played every week. And sometimes it changed hands more times than anyone can remember.
That is precisely what makes second-hand vinyl interesting. You can find releases that are no longer available new, special pressings and records you might never have come across otherwise.
But every second-hand record deserves a closer look. A nice sleeve is no guarantee of good vinyl. A shiny record may still play noisily. And a high asking price does not automatically mean you have found a rare release.
A consistent inspection helps you avoid surprises and spot the copies worth taking home.
KNOW WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING AT
START WITH THE RIGHT RELEASE
Before you look at the condition or price, you need to know which release you’re looking at.
A single album can have dozens of versions:
• an original pressing;
• a repress from the same country;
• a release from another country;
• a remastered reissue;
• a club edition;
• a promotional pressing;
• a counterfeit or unauthorised release.
The front cover may look almost identical across all these versions. So look further.
Check the catalogue number on the sleeve, the label and, if applicable, the spine. Look at the country of release, record label, copyright year and matrix codes in the run-out groove.
The year on the sleeve is not always the year your copy was pressed. Reissues often retain the original copyright year.
Want to know exactly which pressing you’ve found? Follow the steps in VINYL DETECTIVE — How to identify an original pressing.
CHECK THE VINYL
TAKE THE RECORD OUT OF THE SLEEVE
Never judge second-hand vinyl by looking at the outer sleeve alone.
Always ask if you can take the record out of its inner sleeve. Handle it carefully, holding it only by the outer edge and the label.
Inspect both sides under a strong, focused light source. Tilt the vinyl slowly so that the light catches different parts of the surface.
Look for:
• superficial hairlines;
• deeper scratches;
• dull or worn grooves;
• fingerprints and dirt;
• stains or residue from cleaning products;
• damage around the centre hole;
• warping or ripples in the vinyl;
• cracks around the edge or centre hole.
A record may look fine in normal light, while signs of wear become immediately visible under a bright lamp.
SCUFF OR SCRATCH?
NOT ALL MARKS ARE THE SAME
A superficial scuff or hairline may not be audible. These marks can occur, for example, when a record is frequently slid in and out of a paper inner sleeve.
A real scratch cuts deeper into the grooves and can cause a recurring click with every revolution.
So don’t just count how many marks you can see. Also consider:
• how deep they appear to be;
• whether they cross multiple tracks;
• whether they follow the direction of the grooves;
• whether the same spot comes around with every revolution.
Don’t run your fingernail over the vinyl to test for a scratch. You could further damage the surface. Use light and, whenever possible, listen to the record.
CHECK THE SHAPE
MAKE SURE THE RECORD IS FLAT
A warped record can make the stylus move and affect the pitch. Severe warping can even make playback impossible.
Hold the record at eye level and look along the edge. You can also place it on a flat turntable and let it spin slowly.
A very slight warp may not always be audible. A pronounced ripple, raised edge or bowl shape is a bigger risk.
Pay particular attention to records that have:
• been stored leaning or lying flat for a long time;
• been left in direct sunlight;
• been kept near a heat source;
• been tightly packed in damaged packaging.
Also check that the centre hole is correctly positioned. With an off-centre pressing, the stylus moves back and forth as the record plays. This can cause audible fluctuations, even when the vinyl is otherwise in good condition.
READ THE LABEL
THE LABEL TELLS YOU HOW THE RECORD WAS HANDLED
The label helps you identify a pressing, but it also shows signs of use.
Look at the area around the centre hole. Lots of small lines may indicate that the record has often been placed on the turntable carelessly.
Also check for:
• writing;
• stickers;
• moisture stains;
• tears;
• peeling paper;
• discolouration;
• a damaged or worn centre hole.
A damaged label does not always affect the sound, but it should be taken into account when assessing the condition and price.
CHECK THE SLEEVE
THE SLEEVE IS PART OF THE ASSESSMENT
Vinyl and sleeve are graded separately. A record can be Near Mint while the sleeve is Very Good—or the other way around.
Check the outer sleeve for:
• damaged corners;
• ring wear;
• splits along the top, bottom or side edges;
• folds and creases;
• writing and stickers;
• sun fading;
• water damage;
• mould or a strong musty smell;
• spine damage and how legible the title is.
Also look for tape. It may hide an old repair and can discolour or peel over time.
A used sleeve does not have to be perfect. What matters is whether its condition is described honestly and reflected in the price.
COMPLETE THE PACKAGE
ARE ALL THE ORIGINAL COMPONENTS THERE?
Some releases came with more than just a record and an outer sleeve.
These may include:
• a printed inner sleeve;
• a lyric sheet;
• a booklet;
• a poster;
• photographs or cards;
• stickers;
• an obi strip with Japanese releases;
• a download card with more recent releases;
• extra records or bonus material.
Missing components do not always affect playback, but they can matter to collectors.
So compare what’s included with a reliable description of the release. At the same time, check that the components really belong to this specific pressing and weren’t added later.
THE SMELL TEST
TAKE A SNIFF BEFORE YOU BUY
It may sound strange, but the smell of a record sleeve can tell you a lot about how a collection was stored.
A strong musty smell may indicate that it was kept in a damp room for a long time. If so, inspect the sleeve carefully for small stains, wavy cardboard and mould.
Strong smoke odours can also seep deep into cardboard and paper and be difficult to remove.
A faint old-paper smell is nothing unusual. A strong smell of damp, a cellar or mould is a reason to be more cautious.
LOOKING ISN’T LISTENING
ASK IF THE RECORD HAS BEEN PLAYED
Many used records are graded visually only. Some damage is easy to see, but not every sound issue is visible.
So ask:
• Has the record actually been played?
• Does it play without skipping?
• Is there surface noise?
• Are there recurring clicks?
• Is there distortion in loud or high-pitched passages?
• Does the grade apply to the vinyl only, or to the sleeve as well?
In a physical shop, you may be able to listen to part of the record yourself. If so, don’t just choose a loud track. Check a quiet passage, the beginning of both sides and the spot where there’s a visible scratch.
An honest description of how a record sounds is more valuable than an optimistic grade alone.
UNDERSTAND THE GRADE
KNOW WHAT THE LETTERS MEAN
Many sellers use abbreviations such as NM, VG+ and VG. These grades are only useful when applied consistently.
A brief summary:
NM — NEAR MINT
Almost perfect, with no obvious damage or bothersome noise.
VG+ — VERY GOOD PLUS
Carefully used, with light signs of wear that have little impact on the listening experience.
VG — VERY GOOD
Clearly used, with visible wear and audible noise that does not completely overpower the music.
G — GOOD
Heavily used and audibly damaged, but still playable.
For the full explanation, see VINYL GRADING EXPLAINED — What do Mint, Near Mint and Very Good mean?
SEALED IS NOT MINT
SEALED DOESN’T AUTOMATICALLY MEAN PERFECT
An old record in unopened shrink-wrap can be particularly appealing. Still, you can’t be sure what’s inside.
Even a sealed record can:
• be warped;
• have manufacturing defects;
• have been damaged in transit;
• have moisture or mould problems;
• contain the wrong record or pressing.
“Sealed” describes the packaging. “Mint” describes the condition. They don’t automatically mean the same thing.
With an expensive sealed record, it’s also important to know what happens if you open it. Ask about the return policy and how the release was identified before you buy.
BUYING ONLINE
ASK FOR THE RIGHT PHOTOS
Online, you can’t hold, tilt or listen to the record yourself. Good photos and a clear description are therefore essential.
If in doubt, ask for sharp photos of:
• both sides of the vinyl;
• both labels;
• the front and back of the sleeve;
• the spine and corners;
• any damaged edges or seams;
• the matrix codes;
• the inner sleeve and inserts;
• any scratch or irregularity that’s mentioned.
Photos should be well lit and in focus. A dark photo that leaves the vinyl completely black tells you little about its actual condition.
For more expensive records, consider asking for a short video showing the record being tilted under light or spinning on a turntable.
Also check:
• how thoroughly the seller describes the condition;
• whether the vinyl and sleeve are graded separately;
• whether known damage is mentioned honestly;
• how the record will be packaged and shipped;
• what return options are available if the description is inaccurate.
PRICE IS MORE THAN AGE
OLD DOESN’T AUTOMATICALLY MEAN VALUABLE
A record’s value is determined by a combination of factors:
• the artist and title;
• the specific pressing;
• rarity;
• collector demand;
• the condition of the vinyl and sleeve;
• completeness;
• provenance or special features;
• recent prices for comparable copies that have sold.
A high asking price is no proof of value. So look at the prices comparable copies have actually sold for, not just listings that are still online.
Compare only the same pressing and copies in roughly the same condition. A Near Mint first pressing and a Very Good reissue are not a reliable price comparison.
WHEN VG IS THE RIGHT CHOICE
THE BEST BUY ISN’T ALWAYS NEAR MINT
A lower grade does not automatically mean a bad purchase.
A VG copy can be a good option if it plays well, is described honestly and is considerably more affordable than a perfect copy. Particularly with rare releases, a used copy for listening may be exactly what you’re looking for.
So decide in advance what matters to you:
• do you want the best-looking collector’s copy?
• do you mainly want to listen to it?
• are you looking for a specific pressing?
• do the sleeve and inserts need to be complete?
• are you happy to accept light noise?
• what’s the most you want to spend?
When you know what you’re looking for, you’re less likely to be swayed by words such as “rare”, “vintage” or “collector’s item”.
KNOW WHEN TO WALK AWAY
WHEN SHOULD YOU LEAVE A RECORD BEHIND?
It’s better to leave a record behind when:
• the seller avoids clear questions;
• the grade doesn’t match the photos;
• a serious scratch isn’t mentioned;
• the vinyl is severely warped;
• there’s visible mould;
• the pressing cannot be reliably identified;
• essential components are missing and this isn’t mentioned;
• the price is justified only by calling it “old” or “rare”;
• you’re being pressured to decide immediately.
There’s almost always another record coming along. A questionable purchase rarely looks better after you’ve paid.
AFTER THE BUY
CLEAN IT BEFORE YOU PLAY IT
A second-hand record may have dust, skin oils and residue from old cleaning products on it. So don’t automatically put it straight on your turntable.
Inspect and clean the record according to THE VINYL CARE GUIDE. Let it dry completely and replace a dirty inner sleeve with a clean anti-static one.
If the original printed inner sleeve is part of the release, store it separately with the record.
This prevents dirt from a new purchase getting onto your stylus or other records.
THE SECOND-HAND CHECKLIST
BEFORE YOU BUY
• Check the exact pressing.
• Compare the catalogue number, label and matrix code.
• Inspect both sides under bright light.
• Check for scratches, wear and warping.
• Assess the vinyl and sleeve separately.
• Check the inner sleeve and original inserts.
• Look for damp, mould and strong odours.
• Ask whether the record has been played.
• Check that the grade makes sense.
• Compare copies that have actually sold.
• Ask for clear photos when buying online.
• Check the packaging, shipping and return options.
• Clean the record safely before playing it.
FIND THE RIGHT COPY
Buying second-hand vinyl isn’t about finding a perfect copy. It’s about finding the right combination of pressing, condition, completeness and price.
Sometimes that’s an almost perfect collector’s copy. Sometimes it’s a used record with a few clicks and a sleeve that’s clearly lived a little.
Look beyond the front cover. Check what you’re really buying. Ask questions, and don’t be afraid to leave a record behind.
The right copy doesn’t have to be perfect.
It just has to be worth playing again.
KEEP DIGGING.
SJELF.
